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Continuing the discussion, one memory leads to another and one name brings up others... Robbie McDonald was a good friend of mine. He had a little trailor that he live in outside of his mom and dad's at Empty Lots. He was living up at Pupukea when he disappeared. Some name that i didn't include was Steve Sage and Mike Bell, both lived on Ewa Beach Road for a while. Other names worth mentioning are Damon Tsudimaki (sp.?) and his brother Dean. They lived across from Campbell, Damon was one of my favorite surfers when shortboards came in. Another shortboard surfer that was good at Shark Country was Michael Alcosiba or "Dudong" he ripped out there for a while also. Him and his younger sister Stephanie were really good surfers. I'm not sure where they we from. Some of the Ewa Guys that I remember, longboard going into short, were "Lino" and Roger Santamonica. No one mentioned the tree house at Coves, that was a wild hangout. Some of the Makakilo guys hung out there, Jerry Hunter, Steve Wofford... late 60"s drug house. As for Charlie Mizunaka, he gave me my first surfoard, a solid balsa,homemade. His big sister Jessie go a new Foam surfboard, and he got hers, his brother Glenn got his red one, and his youngest brother Mark didn't surf of I got it. Back then it was impossible to get one, my dad would never buy one for me. We had those little cheapy foam belly boards, the ones that gave you a mean rash if you didn't wear a t-shirt. Thats as good as it got then, maybe a "SandSlide Board" if your dad made it for you. Back then, on the beach up in front of Silva Store, Barney Silva made surfboards in a little beach shack. Everyone surfed in front of their own house, my mom was afraid of me going down to Empty Lots (the heavy wave) I used to catch a wave go right, paddle straight out, catch another, go right, paddle straigth out, till I got down to Empty Lots ( which was still an emty lot) One guy classic guy that surfed out there then was Norman Nauka, he always surfed with long jeans on, real old school.
Back to Charlie Mizunaka, he was a guy that I looked up to, a real surf charger. I remember he had a great Dick Delong shotboard that worked better than my Rich Parr, I borrowed that board as much as he would let me. Bummer when your friend had a board better that yours. Awesome memories, thanks to everyone who is contributing, and thanks to Bill Barnfienld for turning me on to this discussion. 'cannot forget your roots.
Dudong and his family were from Honouliuli. His older brother Moke, moved next to my father. Moke surfs and has been making boards for a very long time.
I remember Charlie Mizunaka coming out and charging big Shark Country with an orange board. Lots of Ewa Beach guys had boards from Dickie.
I remember a guy named Wofford from Makakilo, but he was about my age, so maybe he was Steve's younger brother?
Can't forget the Palmerton brothers. They lived in the last house on Papipi Street, just before the pavement ended, and the beach road started.
Randy Goto was a longboarder from Ewa Town.
Good memory! Dick DeLong was one of the first ones with Lightning Bolt. I remember a white board that he had that he said they were trying out a new logo for that company. He lived on Ewa Beach Road toward the park, right across from where Mike Bell lived. Randy Goto had a brother I think named Clifford also. Some of those Ewa guys were good. I remember that Michael Alcosiba winning on of the Shark Country meets, maybe put on by the Ewa Beach Surf Club. What was the caretaker that lived in the house at the real hau bush park? we used to park there and paddle out from the beach and use the shower there. Sometimes paddle out at Seawalls, if the tide wasn't too high. I don't know if anyone remembers on hau bush road opposite the ocean, down one of the dirt roads, Isaac Tanaka's family had an old abandonged quonset hut, he turned it into a surfboard shop. Good place to hang out. All hand shapes and I don't think that anyone know what they were doing, but that didn't stop anyone from trying. Those were good times, now a days the kids can't even fix ding's... I guess their parents buy them a new one, or their sponsors. Someone I see all the time is John Abilla, he is from your age group. He graduated from Saint Louis High. He know the where abouts of that whole gang. Dean Ornellas also. I have seen Mikey V. the last couple of years. He comes over from California for family stuff. He gave me a video taken by Mr. & Mrs. Husic (Robbie's parents) old video of Robbie, Mikey, Jon Crouch and some others at Shark Country, some Empty Lots and some North Shore, all when they were kids. Those times were fun, cutting out from Campbell to go surf and coming back for lunch only. I remember Greg Hair, Frank and I in Gregs VW bug driving to surf after cutting school when the winds were good. We were looking at the flag in front of the bank and didn't see the car stopped at the stop light... greg ran right into his bumper. Right there in front of the school... busted! How about your board flying off the car when we had those bolt on racks with the rubber straps. You forget to strap that thing down and whoosh! One time coming back from surfing Tracks, Frank Aragon and I , right before Honokai Hale, our racks broke off the car and the whole thing went off the road boards still strapped on. Had to climb down the hill to get them back.
John Abilla would remember me. When I was high school we used to hang out at one of Mark Kahalekulu's mom's houses next to the southern baptist church and Dean Ornellas would play his guitar. Randy Nii and I think John were renting the house, maybe Mark was living there, kinda foggy.
I saw that film Mrs. Husic shot a long time ago, there was also a film with him at Sea Wall. She used to show movies at the Library when it first opened back when there wasn't anything on North Road across from Campbell High.
John Crouch and I were friends as well. When I graduated from school I worked nights, so I'd surf at Officer's in the morning if Shark Country was small and John and one other guy would be the only ones out. He and Jonathan were both working on base and John went back to a long board back then. I tried hard to get him to glass me a board, but he didn't want to do that any more. I think Kimo Farm was a big influence for guys riding really nice old style longboards at Ewa Beach.
Did you know Tim McCafferty? He was another good surfer, his younger sister Maureen was my classmate. I was with Corey Abilinado, who was Reno's boy. Reno was the caretaker at the Ewa Plantation park. We were at Robbie Husic's house one day and Tim comes up on his motorcycle and gave Robbie a little skegless foam paipo. Robbie looked at it and gave it to Corey and Corey ended up giving it to me. Corey and I were good friends until their family left the park. I was about 9th grade then, Corey was a couple of years younger than I was. Corey could surf on anything, he was like Ewa Beach's version of Buttons. We'd standup on paipos and surf the way inside break at shark country. Then we'd go hangout in the Hau trees along the water's edge. You could get a good view of the surf from the top of the trees. We were like monkeys up there climbing all over. I spent a lot of time at the beach when I was in elementary school hanging out at the beach house where my dad's aunt lived. Corey and I were also friends with Dale Okamura. Dale got us headed down a very dark path. Another family that hung out at the beach was the Crums. Marshall and Sabrina ?, she was another classmate at Ewa Beach Elementary. They moved away a long time ago, same for the McCaffertys. They left after Timmy died.
I actually spent a summer hanging out at Isaac's quonset hut, bugging the heck out of him. It must have been about 1970 or 71. He and George Kaholokua were making boards in there. I got 2 boards from Isaac, and he made a custom board for my brother and Timmy Foo, who's dad owned the Bakery at the shopping center. Timmy and I were best friends, but Timmy wasn't much of a surfer. He tried hard, but he was more of a fisherman.
I see Ralph Palmera now and then in town. Either at Courts or Diamond head. He makes nice boards. I've lost tough with most of the others. Every now and then I see Joey Gaynor and the O'Reilly boys and some of the others who are my generation at Shark Country, but don't get out there much.
Issac Tanaka contacted me a week or 2 ago, saying he saw something on Sways on another thread. He wasn't sure who I was. I told him he should add some stuff to this thread, I hope he does.
I think you set the standard for style in most of my generation's regular foot surfers. It makes me think of Michael Peterson's stance. If you can remember to say high to Mikey or John Abilla for me I'd surely appreciate it. Tell them Harry Alama said hi.
I'm going to see John on Wednesday night and I'll plug him into this forum. Speaking of Marshall Crum, I saw him in the water at Sunset Point a couple of weeks ago. Pretty amazing that you bring him up. He is doing good, riding his own shapes, really small weird boards, kind of like a "lazer lap" with 2 fins. Last time I saw him he had a small twin. I think that he lives in town. thanks for the name of the caretaker, I've been wondering for a while. Good to recollect, sometimes I don't know if I got the right story. Another name that came to mind is David Murakami, he was someone I looked up to also, good freinds with Charlie. He was a life guard on the West side back then and rode big waves. Haven't heard anything about him for a while. In the discussion before Gooney's name came up, he hasn't surfed in who know's how long... even before he moved to the mainland. We had that shop in his backyard, Hallelujah Surfboards. I don't think that they were very good, but, Debbie Wayman (Bowers) said that she got the first one. i worked with her mom at the gas station on Capehart (sp?) I see her all the time, she lives on the North Shore and still gets out there. As for the Foo's, I worked at Ewa Beach Bakery for a year and a half after high school. Perfect surfing job, 4:30am. till 11:30am. so lots of time after to surf, and all the bakery stuff to eat. Mr.Foo accused me of eating him out of the business. What a great time. Surf all day, go to Barney's for lunch. Everything was cheap compared to now, gas was 35cents a gallon then. Before Ewa Beach Bakery, I worked up at Dole Plantion with Frank to make money for a Rich Parr - $99.00 special board. Worked there with Tommy Phillips, and a bunch of Makakilo Boys. Also on there at the same time was Glenn Kaulakakui and his brother Roddy. Frank and I, Glenn and Roddy, we all got kick off of night shift,I think that they got caught sleeping and we were on the team together. I never got enough to make the $99.00, I had to borrow some from Calvin Higa to pay. I had one of those Reno Abellira rounded noses, but with out the hyper kick. Reno was my hero. I remember even shaving down the fin so I could "sideslip". Calvin was older and had a car and he was in the National Guard so he could get on base. He was from Pearl City so when he came down he was amped to surf. Even when there was no surf he would go out and stay out for hours. Torture to wait in the car at Sand Tracks or O Beach for him. But once in a while he would get busted because he wasn't an officer so he would get a ticket on his car. They would also send us to the Main Gate by Makakilo and we would all have to get out a fill out paper work. Sometimes they wouldn't want to let us in because we had slippers on. When I was younger, guys would paddle across the fence to surf O Beach, when they would lose their boards (long boards) the MP's would grab the baord and when they came in to get it they would get arrested for trespassing. Mrs. Husic and the surfclub took the case to court and they won. So from the high water mark it was allowable to go from the Ewa Beach side.
Butch; Man, I haven't thought of Calvin Higa in a long time! Empty Lot regular, and one of the few guys from out-side Ewa Beach that no one hassled. And he had a REAL job, so usually had nice boards. He was a good surfer as I remember, but practically blind without his glasses. I think he used to watch for us scrambling outside, or to the left or right to know when and where a set was coming in. Also spent a lot of time sitting way outside waiting for a clean-up sets, and he managed to nail "the wave of the day" regularly. Ha! Very mellow guy.
Marshall Crumb and David Murakami; other names all but forgotten in my old brain. David picked us up on EBR and would drive us to school sometimes, and to Haubush side, and sometimes west shore or north shore on surf trips back in the earlier days before we had cars or licenses. I remember when you, me and Glen Mizunaka would meet at your house in the mornings and walk to school together. We'd stop by the get Frank and Roy Aragon on the way, sometimes hanging out in fort under his house. Steve Sage too, later on when he moved from Leeward Estates to EBR. Good memories!
A friend of mine has a son who's taken an interest in shaping along with a couple of his friends. He mentioned he met a guy named Marshall Crumb out surfing that designs clothes for Volcom and was riding his own shapes, short double ender twin fins, really killing it. Think that's the guy you mentioned in your post? They along with Marshall are looking to borrow my sweat box of a shaping room soon. Looking forward to seeing Marshall's shapes, possibly ask him to shape me one too.
Must be; how many Marshall Crumbs could there be in Hawaii? and Butch mentioned he was riding his own, unusually shaped small boards. Yup. I'd say that would be him.
hate to break the positive vibe but I've been surfing sandtracks(haubush park) these past mornings while on vacation and ran into Shaun O'reilly and Jon Okamura yesterday only to find out that Dale Okamura passed away three weeks ago and they spread his ashes at sharkcountry last weekend. Had about 50 people there.
Shaun said everyone said they were amazed and got a kick to see a little league picture of the Ewa Beach Senators with Harry, myself, Dale and a bunch of other local boys. We used to play baseball with Tommy Phillips back them at Ewa Beach Park and the original Haubush Park among other places. Kimo Kauihou and other classmates from Ewa Beach Elementary and Campbell High attended the beach service. Plus Shaun said every thing "was good" with Dale when it happened if you know what I mean.
Old Ewa Beach will always have a special place in many hearts and as junk as the wave can be with its day long side shore tradewinds it still produces some of the best surfers on the islands. From the guys Butch brings up in the 60's to guys like Butch, Bobby Owens and Robbie Husic in the 70's to other like Isaac Kaneshiro, Jason Gantz in the 90's to Dustin Cuizon, Kekoa Bacalso and Joel Centenio today. But understanding the roots of where it all started is important to capture before everyone who was there is gone.
There's also a well known dark side to ewa beach that is the popular knowledge of this place, it could be the isolation easy access to drugs and poor plantation economy. Having to bring a city bus into the neighborhood to hold everyone that was being arrested that day back in the 70's was all time.
I think the one thing this thread shows is that it wasn't always like that. Hanging at Barney's, Tanaka or Silva store wasn't about scoring the next deal but more about getting some good cheap food with friends after a surf.
Don't if anyone remembers the guy we called "chicken man" who lived on Papipi who could crack us all up with his chicken imitation. John Crouch used to do a mean chicken dance as well,, Still remember his crazy hand jives dropping in to some big first break take offs as well as Isaac Tanaka's and Gooney's unique wide butt squat to the deck hand dragging the face Reno Abellera drop in stance.
Also who was the bald headed crazy guy with "caveman" tattoo'd into his fingers with a bic pen? We all were sacred of him as kids. Maybe Isaac Tanaka would know. Issac was also making some of the most advanced boards we ever saw in to 70's super light potato chip like boards before anyone ever new what a potato chip like surfboard was. Rode some of Dickie's Surfline boards and Gooney made some unique boards back then too. Coming from Ewa Beach you could never afford a Parrish or Brewer. I once like Butch worked a whole summer at the Cannery just make enough to get a board from Harold Iggy.
Butch, I think Marshall Crum is one of a couple guys here that came make the McCoy loaded dome design under license. I think he was a bud with Cheyne and Critta. Also is it true about what happened to Robbie Husic in the early 70's or was that just legend.
John Okamura told me a couple interesting stories in the lineup yesterday, the first was his wife commenting on Kimo Kauihou (6'2" 54yrs old) bringing a 5'10" Parmenter malolo fish asking if that was just for show or was Kimo actually going paddle out on that and Jon saying that that was his favorite board. The second was Jon always being asked when did he take up longboarding and people not believing that as groms thats what he mostly surfed and that some started on longboards like Kevin/Kyle Farm and never converted to the shortboard. Their mom, my aunty Honey has the most beautiful blue Ramsey-Jay back then while her oldest son Kimo had the most space age Brewers we ever saw in the early 70's. Kyle would later ride and maintain a huge collection of Ole's after he moved to Maui but Kevin like Corey could ride anything on anything. Even saw Corey once standup on a plank of redwood driftwood at haubush for fun.
I think both stories tell alot about things that are misunderstood the most about surfing
Wow Butch, you life seems to have a lot of similarities to what I went through, but just a few years behind.
Mr. Foo was a second father to me. Bernie was boarding at Kamehameha and my dad worked for the Government overseas when I was still in elem school. I spent many days and nights with Timmy, Troy and Tenneson. We'd wash pans and help make the dough for the next day. Then on the really big holidays, like Thanksgiving, I'd help them make all the pies. We'd be pressing pie pans for hours. During the summers, we'd go in and work, then go to the beach, then come back for the afternoon bread and wash more pans. You can get spoiled when the pastry you eat is right out of the oven. Especially the hot french rolls and then you take that big paint brush he had sitting in butter and you slap that on.
Timmy went to Pohakea Elem, and I went to Ewa Beach Elem. David Arioli was my best friend from school, and Tim was my best friend after school. As time went by, I gravitated to the ocean and Timmy just didn't get hooked like the rest of us.
I remember surfing in town one sumer day with Joey Gaynor and David Arioli. The bowl was like 6 feet and Reno was out there looking just like the magazines. I also love the way Reno surfed. Being a small kid, it was easy to emulate his style. We surfed rock piles that day, then came home and surfed shark country. That's was when I had my second board from Issac Tanaka a 5'6" round pin. Joey, Scott Kauihou, and Corey were all good switch foots, so I followed them and learned to surf both ways.
Bernie and I both got boards from Gooney, "Hallelujah Sun Boards". I sold mine to Troy Foo after using it about a year. Mr. Foo told that one day he got a call from the military police to come get his son. Troy used to take his boat out the to mouth of Pearl Harbor and surf the waves off the channel all by himself. One day he decided to go onto the rocks and get warmed up. He fell asleep and the military police came out and arrested him. After they got Troy, they had to get another boat and go back for Troy's boat. The Foo's loved to hunt and fish, and both Troy and Tenneson had nice boats. I think Troy moved to Colorado. Too bad the boys didn't want to take over the bakery, but I guess it was pretty hard work. Do you remember seeing all the Wild Turkey?
Debbie was also a good friend during that time. She was "one of the boys" and fought her way to getting set waves like all the rest of us. I haven't seen her since she quit being a lifeguard to become a fireman.
One night I was at the cannery with the younger Ayala brother and one of the Hasegawa brothers. We were all working on the same line trimming pineapple. It was a classic group of bad news bears boys and one spoiled kid who was friend with the old lady supervisors. We had to constantly pick up his slack and they were on us all day. Well at the lunch break the 3 of us went to the office and told them we quit and walked out. I think we lasted about a month or a little over before we just exploded that night.
Funny you say Capehart I haven't heard that for decades. Wasn't that the Iriquois Point station, next to the small PX? I remember the long gas lines there when the oil crisis was maxed out.
I was able to get on base until they realized my ID card was expired and I was over 20. After that it was long walks from shark country. That was OK since my dad was down at the beach with my uncles having a good time. I used to get hassled by the lifeguards and I'd just tell them F off, I'm hawaiian and I can surf anywhere I want. I was always ready to make a bee line for the beach or paddle all the way back towards tree stumps if I had too.
Marshall Crum was working for Downing in the 80's. Kainoa and I are classmates, so I would try to get boards from them whenever the price was right. I remember him being there around the time they made the bong fin boards. Marshall seemed to like wider tailed boards even with a single fin. Now when I think of it it seemed like they do look similar to McCoy's boards, but with a round tail.
I would sit on the pier at Bishop's Landing on the Hickam side of the channel entrance looking into the tube as the wave peeled down the Ewa side of the reef, it was one of those mesmerizing Hawaii 5 -oh, not a drop out of place tubes when the winds were right, I had dreams of riding that wave with Mr.Tiger Shark.
Troy sure had some big balls to be out there by himself
Funny thing is that Troy's Dad told me that same day that I was the craziest kid he knew. He said he never met anyone with more guts than brains. I guess Troy learned a little from his older brother and me.
I thought I was kinda mild compared to the other guys we grew up with. Most of them went to DH and then on to prison.
Nowadays, those spots are where the tow in guys head in the summer. I'm sure CMP has been there quite a few times.
I forgot to mention that during that summer at the cannery we had all had our fill with the spoiled guy, and got him royally. They always tell you to never put the knife down, ever. So here we are cutting the pines non stop and he's gabbing away not doing much as usual. He puts his knife down on a small tray where you cut the pines starts gabbing and someone, I can't remember if it was me or someone else hits the table and the knife fell into the shoot where all the scrapes go. The cannery has a series of long belts moving all over with various product, and they are all connected to one main system, so once the knife fell into the scrap line they had to shut the whole cannery down and look through all that mess to find the knife.
We were all laughing, but then the boss ladies took it out on us and gave us all more sh t to eat. I don't remember if that was the day we walked out or if was later. Never ever hire a bunch of kids from Ewa Beach to work for you and then fk with them. Treat em good and you'll get your money's worth, treat em like sht and that's what you get back.
Howzit Butch. First off, I want to thank you guys for making me feel like a grom - it's nice not to be the oldest one out in the "lineup" for a change. Thought i would add a few tidbits to your discussion. Although I am not an Ewa local (almost embarrassed to be from Hawaii Kai), I learned to surf at Officers and Tracks. One memory I share with my kids and friends is of when leashes first came out. Back around 1973, there was an old guy who would sit under the pavilion at Officers beach and make leashes from surgical tubing and cord. He would make them for free - pure aloha. Those things would leave choke marks on your ankles, send you board flying back at you at mach speed and cut gashes in your tails. Anybody else remember that guy? Also, I am good friends with Nathan Moody here on Maui. The guy still has so much style out in the water. He's not the most "techie" kind of guy, but I plan on showing him this thread in the next day or so. Aloha.
The old surgical rubber tube leashes were so bad. We'd use 1/4" nylon rope inside the tubing and give it so much slack so it could stretch and take the pull out, but they always ended up like a slingshot and the board would come flying back. You'd always head down deep when you fall to avoid getting a fin in your ass or something even worse. But before that when we only used the 1/4" rope with the surgical tube to soften the pull on our ankles, you'd get a big jerk on your ankle when you wiped out and you'd still end up with a damaged rail.
I remember that we'd have to drill a hole through the fin then tie the leg rope to the fin before someone came out with that glue on plug and we started using that. Then someone came out with the rail saver to keep the leash from cutting into the rail. Now they have the "rail saver" built into the leash.
I was out at Campbell's on a good south swell back in the 70's and I had my brother's 7'4" Hallelujah Sun Board, it had the old style leash with no rail saver. We were surfing the lefts on the west side by the cement factory that area that day. I remember getting caught inside on a big set and being pulled over the falls in the lip as I tried to paddle through. I went over my friend Mark Kahalekulu as he was in the tube, and the fin hit him in the head. I ate it bad, but the worse part was that the old leg rope wrapped around my ankle and when it pulled tight it hurt like hell. The plastic plug broke and I had to swim in to get my board. The board had a nasty slice through the rail, but my brother was going to school in in Seattle, so I had time to fix it. When we went home, I had a nasty bruise all the way around my ankle and I could hardly walk. My friend Mark had a small cut and bump on his head but he was OK.
In 1973 and 74, my brother, our friend Mark and I would go out to Officer's any time Shark Country wasn't good enough. There were a lot of guys from Makakilo and Pearl City surfing there back then. I surfed at Officer's regularly until about 1980 or so, it could get really good when the swells came around from the west.
I think in 1975 or 1976 there was a hurricane that passed south of Oahu and it generated a strong south, but it was messy. I surfed at Officer's that day on acid. It was insane how ballsy you can get when you do that. I remember riding along in the tube on these big closeouts and just watching as the whole thing would come down on me. Seemed so artsy with all that twisting and turning of water, I'd just hang in there until I got swallowed up. I guess that's what Clark Little likes about the Waimea shore break. I don't know how I managed to live through that period of time.
Howzit sharkcountry, I remember making those same leashes and attached them to a hole in the fin also. I hated using leash but i those days we had a good riend who lived right in front of leftovers and would wear a leash there because if you went right and lost your board you had to deal with the vanna that was every where's. I still hate leashes and only used them in Mexico when the beach was just rocks and dings were automatic if you lost your board. They seemed to always get wrapped around my ankles so I couldn't even open my feet more than maybe 6" apart. I had to borrow boards from Ole when I was on Maui in 74-75 and he made me wear one and always checked the board for dings to make sure I wore the darn thing.I guess since I never wore them when learning to surf it just becamea habit not to wear one. I remember watching Andy and Bruce irone plus Dustin Barca and Reef and Roy Powers all surfing Pine Trees one day without leashes and they surfed better than I had ever seen them. I don't know but it just seems like there is some kindof freedom to your surfing when not wearing one. Aloha,Kokua
I just hate when the leash wraps around both feet like that. Then you can't do anything and you can't move. Doing the leash dance is a pain too. You know the one where you're trying to get the front foot untangled but can't get it on the first or second try.
When you take off switch stance the leash is on the front foot and it often causes a problem. Most of the time, I'll drop down backside then switch after I make my top turn. For me switching stance at that time works as well as taking off switch foot.
Leashes are great to help keep your board out of the rocks, or when the tide is so low that you end up in water that is to shallow to swim in. But then if we didn't have leashes we'd probably have other ways to deal with that. I usually use a 3 times rule when I don't use the leash, if I have to swim in 3 times, which is usually a pretty long swim, I go in.
Good remembering old times and old friends. Aloha to all that have been blessed in these waters and the lands of Ewa Beach. We made our own
surfboards then from balsa wood from an old military dumping site near red hill. We cut old military rafts to get the wood and shaped and glassed
them. Not fanncy but they floated. Put skegs on them and then out into the ocean. Found out later if you don't wax it you slide off like walking in
mud. Well we cured that soon. From then on we were Surfers. When gramma Silva passed away Barney and Louie turned the small.house into
the Surf Shack and we saw our first introduction into foam. Let the good times roll. In those days the surf was mostly always there, well formed,
and every house on the road was my home. Beautiful times, beautiful memories, beautiful place Ewa Beach Road.
In regards to Steve Wofford, yes, that 's the one. Steve and his family grew up in Makakilo, when it was a small community up on the mountain. Not near as big as today. Yes he was an excellent musician with many locally famous bands... Country Comfort, Peter Moon Band, Becky Mello Band and others. I know some of him as he was my brother in law at one time.
Hey Butch, I don't know if you heard, but Mr Foo passed away. I was on the mainland when when I found out and I missed the service. My Mom and sister went.
Everyone except Timmy was there.
Hello Shark Country,
In reply to the passing of Mr.Foo, I saw the obituary in the newspaper but was not able to go to the funeral. Also in addition to the recent furry of information, I never went out to the outside reef in front of Ewa Beach park. I remember the day that one of the Kendal's lost is board out there and one of those guy's had to share a board for the paddle in. We used to surf out at the sandbars in front of Ewa Beach Park and also outside of Parrish Drive a bunch. Pretty exotic stuff for us young guys then. We used to paddle down from Ewa Beach Rd. to Shark Country if we were too lazy to walk with our longboards, either way a long haul. Also some names to remember about Officers is the Mize brothers, Lance and Chris. They were the first ones to take me to Swabi's. They had been surfing it a while then and also the outer reefs in from of O Beach. They were chargers and surfed Swabi's really big, most likely with no one out at that time. For you old timers, was how about the Ewa Beach Surf Club? Do you remember when they met at the fire station? Rules to get in was that you had to be invited by a member and he brought up you name at one of the meetings. Next step was that he brought you to the meeting and gave a little intro about you and why you should be in. You were sent outside then all the members either voted you in or out, if in, then you stayed, if out then you were sent home. All of the good surfers were in there then, Sadowski brothers, Herbert Pruse, Nathan Moody, Mike Gionson, Lester Enemoto and also Doug Kingsley, Duke ,Kevin Johns, Chris Gardner, some other military young guys that I can't remember right now so on. At that time it was the greatest thing that could happen to a surfer, to be a member of the Ewa Beach Surf Club. Mrs. Husic was the person who over saw the whole club. She was amazing! Much mahalo's to her for all those years of helping all of the young surfers from Ewa Beach. She is big league! I remember us having a party down at a shack a the Farm's rigth in front of Shark Country for the Surf Club. We did a fund raiser to get money for the club to go to Kauai for a surf meet at Poipu. We sold candy, but when it came time to go, my parents didn't let me go with all the older guy's. Probably a good move on their part... A bunchof those guy's went and had to sleep on the beach with their boards with no real place to stay. So much adventures those days.
any of you folks ever make it out to the outer reef in front ewa beach park and surf it? it looks surfable.... i hear its quite shallow in some spots... also, back when i was in high school around 1989 when haseko was still doing community meetings, getting input. myself and others noticed there channel was gonna come thru somewhere around tree stumps or coves. so we began attending these meetings, we being the campbell h.s. surf club and voiced our concerns, michael akana wrote letters until they agreed to our proposed building of an artificial reef from the dredging material similar to the one that is now ala moana bowl since they would be taking away a legit surf spot. wonder whatever became of that? wass it just yow-yow to quiet us kids? we shoulda push for something in writing! mahalo to james develin, butch, shark country, and the rest for a great trip into the history of ewa beach surf culture. and welcome to swaylocks bradda Flagpoles! im a newcomer myself, you going dig this blog i believe.
Outside reef? Yeah man... That place was hairy - spooky. I paddled all the way out with Steve and Mike Kendall once. Super far. Waves were huge. I went a few more times with a few other maniacs in my dad's skiff with a 15hp Johnson motor on it. Steve Sage, Nathan I think, Kendalls, Rob, Brother Dan, Harry Gaynor... Maybe Brutus? Long time ago. We found the best best way to surf out there is to anchor inside the break (strong anchor brah) and put a red tee shirt on a long, bamboo pole cause really hard to find the boat with all the waves. The inside is radical-shallow and like a washing machine. Wait for in-between sets to paddle out, and god help you if you get nailed by a clean-up set! But some really steep, fast waves out there. The line-up changed a lot though. One set closer to Pearl Harbor, the next opposite side. Paddle fast! Oh yeah, and there are sharks, but not where the waves are breaking (they're smarter than us!).
Wow, so cool to hear all these names and familiar experiences. Had to join in. Arrived on Ewa Beach Rd in the mid-60's, started on foam boards, then my older sister's newly "reduced" 10-0 with redwood stringer. Felt like an aircracft carrier to a little grom like me. Coolest memory above all is how the older guys encouraged us younger kids. Nathan Moody was a few doors down, I remember him letting me and Noel try out some new design board he just got. Butch is on this blog, he was always cool. Even if now Butch and Nathan were to say, "okay, who are you again?" Doesn't matter, the younger kids always remember when the older ones took notice. A few years later I was ready for my first new board (man the things I was willing to surf on before that...). Dickie DeLong let me hang out in his shaping shed to watch how it was made. A lightning bolt, 6-10, diamond pin tail, single fin. I was in heaven. Lots was my main spot, since it was walking distance. I usually stayed on the edge, almost down by Flagpoles. There was a nice inside double-up, which was like a bonus after catching the initial outside wave. As I got older, I would spend a lot of time at the Sage residence, surfing with Pat or stealing his brother Stephen's Hobie Cat when the waves were down. Cal Eaton was next door, Herb Pruce was usually nearby. My future brother-in-law, "Spil" Siliado would call me "Red Hairs" back then, not knowing my real name. Or he would call me "Danny Bell" because he thought I looked like him. Heard Danny passed away recently, sad to hear. Spil passed away way too early, at age 38. God needed him home quickly. So many other things to talk about, love the blog.
A Hui Hou
Hi Ewa Beach Road, lots of names I know there. There's a guy named Charlie Price who tow rides the outer reef when the swell is on. He makes nice Balsa covered boards. He lives by Ewa Beach Park.
I've never surfed those outer reefs, but I have surfed the outer reefs outside Officers Beach, and at Swabis. Problem is that you have to paddle through the deeper water to get out there and the deeper water is where the big sharks cruise around. I surfed at Lots a lot when I was in middle school, but not since then.
I know Cal Eaton from Kamehameha, I know Clay from when the brothers would come down to Shark Country whenever the waves were good. Clay was always the scary looking brother, but Cal is bigger. Cal is still friend after all these years.
I knew Harry and Joey Gaynor, Joey and I are Elem. school classmates and surfed out at SC a lot. Joey lives in the last beach house left at SC. I met Timmy McGafferty a couple times, but he was older. His sister Maureen was another classmate at Ewa Beach Elem. Tim was friends with Robbie Husic and I met him when I was hanging at Robbies house. Sadly Tim and Robbie died very young, and Harry "Jake" Gaynor and his sister Debbie are also gone. Brutus is another SC regular, he moved to Maui years ago with Randy Nii and a couple of other Ewa Beach boys. They were working in the hotels in Kaanapali, and are regulars at Honolua Bay. Randy passed away as well.
I didn't know Dave Cueva or Charlie Mizunaka, but I'd see them when they came out to SC.
I met the project manager of the Haseko project a while ago and mentioned to him that their design of how the marina would cut through to the ocean was flawed because it didn't include a long jetty. The sand flows from SC to Johns every year. I imagine that it also flows beyond that area, but I know from living there that in November the sand starts building up at SC right in front of where we had beach houses, then by March it starts building up down by Tracks and Johns.
I had a house next to Marshall Rosa on the water at Hawaii Kai and he showed me how much the beach eroded from the way they made the boat channel for the Hawaii Kai Marina. About 12' of his yard and the yard in front of our house was gone. All pulled into the deep channel they cut for the Marina. The same will happen to the Ewa Beach Marina if they don't build a jetty on both sides to stop the flow from going into the channel.
I told him a jetty would be a win win for the comunity because over time it would create a nice sandy beach and there would be a nice break on each side of the channel. The take away one break (coves) but give back 2 once the sand deposits there. Plus they wouldn't have the problem of all the sand building up in the channel.
I bet that they will have problems keeping the sharks out of that Marina, I can see those big tigers swimming in and munching on the crap people will be dumping in there.
Hey Shark County,
I would guess that tow riding into the outside reef breaks would be the way to go. Paddling through the inside shallow areas (once you got through the deep, dark, scary water) was really tough. And losing your board could be a real bummer; no leaches back then. I think it was one of the Kualapais that lost their board out there and had to paddle in with one of the Kendall brothers; long board days. The board was never found.
I heard about Randy Nii, Jake Gaynor, Debbie Gaynor, and Robbie Husic (RIP all), but not Tim M. That really sucks. :-(. Not sure if you knew my brother Danny Bell? He died in November at 55 years old. I'm bringing his ashes to Ewa Beach for a paddle out at Lots in August.
If you see Cal Eton, tell him I said hello. We were neighbors for a while until my family moved further up EBR, and we surfed together at Empty Lot just about every swell there was for many years. Clay too, but he was a couple of years older than me. And you're right Clay was/is a big, tough looking Hawaiian, but really, a great guy. Last I heard he was riding bulls on Maui. Probably scared the hell out of the bulls!
That marina by Chicken Creek has been rumored for at least 40 years now. I remember when they had a construction shed up there doing survey work and stuff and it "mysteriously" burnt down in the middle of the night. Imagine that... Anyway, I was there in Novemner for a short stay and drove down to Cove. Looks like they are going to do something. Hope they take surfing and surfers and beach errosion into the equation this time around.
E Aloha no kakou! Wow! Issac and Nathan told me about this site. Crazy! Here are some names missing, Paul Sheppard, Doug Kingsley, Nelson Kang. Nelson lived close to papipi circle. Paul, Doug and even Kani Kaimi and brother Chinaman or Chan lived on Ewa Beach rd.The Kaimi family moved to Makakilo later.
Concerning outside reef, it was Imua Paaina who lost my brothers board (Cal) and not Steven Kendall. I let Imua a board so he could go out with us. These are the people I remember that was out that day. Imua, Mike and Steve Kendall, Jack Kahahane (my cousin) and myself. There were some double over head and bigger sets that day. I was kinda the guy that was trying to show them the ropes and to stick together in case of a close out. Well because it s kinda an open ocean wave on a big day you need to sit outside. I remember catching a good size wave and when I was padding back out I saw sets feathering outside of our small pack. They made it over the first one.all of them were scraching hard. Steven was screamming all of them got nailed. Jack swam for his board and came back out maybe10 minmutes later. He told me what happened and that Steven was freaking and they all paddled in. At the time I was pissed cause back then you didn't leave your buddies stranded out there. Jack said he was going to catch a wave in I said go and was to get the next one. Problem was the next set didn't come in til almost twilight. Remember padding in by Empty Lot and kinda startled Herb as he wasn't expecting anyone to be outside of him paddling in.
Anyway thats that story. Here are a couple more: Everyone knows that John Sadowski was the first to surf Johns Beach. Hence that name. The Outside Reef in front of the rifle range was first surfed in the early sixities 1963-64 by Doug Kingsley, Norman Nauka and yours truly. We had a telescope and would always check out the reefs when the surf was pumping or EL was closing out. I remmeber going out there in the fifties with my Dad and uncles during their fishing trips, and once when his boat was still new (16' 45 hp) he took my moms brother and nephew out for a ride and we actually got some waves with his boat. He did it like a jet ski, angling in the wave then cutting the engine and surfing them. I new the waves were big cause he would angle toward the white water on the crest of the wave and turn back right and go straight to the bottom.The waves were bigger then his boat. Anyway, back to Dougie and Norman. We watched the big swell hit our south shore for nearly a week. From the beach we could see it peeling and spitting.The next week we thought it was 4-6' so we paddled out. As we got closer i saw that we made a mistake in estimating the size. It was huge. Doug wanted to rush out right away. I convinced him to wait and watch it from channel. We knew it was over head. it was breaking left and since I was the lone Goofy foot i went first. I told Doug and Norman to watch me take off as I was going straight down the face and do a bottom turn. Had a yellow Hobie 10'2". They both swore that when I stood up there was a least another 5-6' of wave below my board. We ended up saying it was 8'-12' faces which was conservative, but I know there were some real big ones that day. Besides a close out day at pipe, huge point Makaha, that first time and again with Imua and the Kendalls still rank as some of my alltime biggests days and most hairiest. Note: I was 13 turned 14 at the time.
wow, heavy story akeaE10. mustve been a looooonng paddle in. me i get shark paranoias so i wouldnt have been a happy camper. also youre dad catching second reef waves in the boat with the engine off is impressive. i once mwt a guy named John Nauka. a friend of a friend Pete Makinney. wonder if hes related to your Norman?
Aloha, welcome to swaylocks!
John Nauka is Normans younger brother. He lives on Maui as does his sister Haupu. John is my brother Cals age 56.
John Nauka is Normans younger brother. He lives on Maui as does his sister Haupu. John is my brother Cals age 56.
yup, thats the guy. he was over with friends visiting from florida. was talking story with him @ turtles.
whoa... seen a realy big tiger long time ago out at swabiland. then had to paddle across all that deep water right as it was getting dark. as me and my buddy jason were pretty close in we started to relax. these 2 guys were in the process of laying net, pulling it out of an innertube with wood underneath when WHOOSH! about 15 feet behind them a frickin huge tail comes out of the water splashing everywhere as no doubt the same shark we seen outside, bumped into the net and went right thru it! the 2 braddas screamed like girls, fighting each other to get in the innertube which promptly turned over. though we were scared as crap we just burst into laughter scratching for the shallows. the two hapless fishermen made it in as well. that was 1989.
man i need to get a ski! soooo many insane outer reefs to explore! the one in front ewa bch park is a prime candidate. been out there on a kayak and you guys right, its real shallow. that one in front of the camp grounds just koko-head of swabis is nuts. my friend jon boudreau surfed it last year and he said "bra, bigger than it looks. and its top to bottom." he broke 2 boards that day.
if haseko decides to take away coves and then flake on their promise to build an artificial reef ala bowls, superbank etc. i will bring hellfire, damnation and brimstone to their very doorstep. flames of vengeance lapping at their nostrils and earlobes! LOL! orrrrr maybe ill write nasty letters to the house rep, state senator, city council person for the district along with surfrider foundation. and i really hope they dont pull a ko'olina on us and try and keep the locals out by denying access to parking etc.
aloha guys, thanks so much for your mana'o and insight. i learn everytime i log on here!