my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

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Location: California, USA
Joined: Dec 6 2009
Posts: 2663
Points: 3545

my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

I am planning on building my first longboard.  I've never owned or ridden a longboard before. 

But I'm getting back into surfing at age 54, and am not catching enough waves with my shorter boards.  I have a lot of surfing experience, was pretty hardcore for many years, but have been away too long (23 yrs.), so I'm finding in the water that I'm really just a kook all over again, which sucks.  My mind keeps trying to write checks my body can't cash!  I was told better, but I had to try - bigger fishes than I used to ride, thicker, a 7'6" hybrid, but none of 'em are clicking for me.  I guess I'm not ready for those yet.

Don't get me wrong - I've gotten some good waves on my shorter boards, and the moves and balance are coming back...slowly.  But overall the bigger picture, I'm only getting 2-3 waves per session, even when I stay out longer.  So I want a wave-catcher.

I'm a goofy foot but mainly surf backside, Ventura point break waves (c-st. stables, pitas, rincon), also some Malibu and Leo Carrillo.  Generally less than overhead surf.   I'm 5'7" tall, about 175 lbs., reasonably good shape but working on getting the paddling muscles back!  My favorite shape is a fish, but I can't paddle 'em like I used to.

What do you pundits recommend size/shape wise?  Photos would be appreciated!

I'd just go buy a board but $500 plus is out of my budget right now, I'm in a crunch like a lot of people, and I found a few used ones I like, but of course the ones I like are the same or more than a new one!  If I sell my jobsite trailer I might have some cash for a new one, but I'm probably gonna have to make one, which is ok with me, I've made 3 so far and am anxious to start on my next build. 

Just awaiting your sage advice!

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"The matrix is everywhere. It is all around us. Even now, in this very room...It is the world that has been pulled over your eyes to blind you from the truth."
surfers surfing surfboards

Joined: May 6 2004
Posts: 3225
Points: 2009

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Huck,

Are you building foam, or HWS?     How ''big'' do you want to go?    I have several Ideas about how to approach your goal.   Also, how ''wild'' do you want to get, with respect to design?  Give me something to work with.

Bill Thrailkill
Shaper since 1958

Joined: Jan 6 2010
Posts: 41
Points: 72

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

My suggestion 9 foot by 22'' by 2 7/8'' thick with a fair bit of deck roll, with a slotted centre fin box with a 9'' fin and 4'' side fins. 

Most importantly is the amount of rocker in a modern high performance longboard.

Mine has an 8'' rocker, 4 1/4'' nose lift and 3 3/4'' tail lift and it is so easy to turn.

Location: Brisbane QLD, Australia
Joined: Jan 3 2010
Posts: 15
Points: 17

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Gidday Huck, I've just finished this one, if this doesn't paddle easy & catch plenty of waves nothing will.......

9'7" x 24 1/2" x 3 1/8"

100_2092.JPG
Location: California, USA
Joined: Dec 6 2009
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Re: [Thrailkill] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Thrailkill wrote:

Huck,

Are you building foam, or HWS?     How ''big'' do you want to go?    I have several Ideas about how to approach your goal.   Also, how ''wild'' do you want to get, with respect to design?  Give me something to work with.

HWS, yes.  Size and shape wise, I'm open to any and all suggestions.  I'm trying not to limit myself.  I personally think an 8'er would be plenty big, but I have zero longboard experience to base that on.  In my younger days I used to ride a 5'11" fish for anything up to head high, and a 6'7" swallowtail for anything too big for the fish.  I now ride a 6'8" fish, and I love it - when I'm actually riding a wave.  But I've come to realize I need to catch more waves to get my groove back.  Esp. since I no longer live near the beach, so I just can't get out that often.  Maybe once every two weeks, except when I have remodeling work anywhere near the beach, then I'll go every day.

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"The matrix is everywhere. It is all around us. Even now, in this very room...It is the world that has been pulled over your eyes to blind you from the truth."
surfers surfing surfboards

Location: California, USA
Joined: Dec 6 2009
Posts: 2663
Points: 3545

Re: [pinnypinny] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

pinnypinny wrote:

My suggestion 9 foot by 22'' by 2 7/8'' thick with a fair bit of deck roll, with a slotted centre fin box with a 9'' fin and 4'' side fins. 

Most importantly is the amount of rocker in a modern high performance longboard.

Mine has an 8'' rocker, 4 1/4'' nose lift and 3 3/4'' tail lift and it is so easy to turn.

OK, I'm definitely listening.  So can you post a pic?  I would love to see that rocker in a photo.  Any "flatter" areas, or a pretty uniform curve the whole way?  Is this more rocker than a vintage longboard would have?  The "fair bit of deck roll" - is that so your volume is in the center, but the rails are thin enough to sink?  How about a pic of the fin configuration?

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"The matrix is everywhere. It is all around us. Even now, in this very room...It is the world that has been pulled over your eyes to blind you from the truth."
surfers surfing surfboards

Location: California, USA
Joined: Dec 6 2009
Posts: 2663
Points: 3545

Re: [AussieMal] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Wow - 9'7" by 24 1/2 (I'd need an SUP-type grab handle!) by 3 1/8 - do you think that's a bit large for me, or are you recommending that size?  (I'm pretty small stature, 5'7").  Awesome looking board, by the way!

100_2092.JPG 

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"The matrix is everywhere. It is all around us. Even now, in this very room...It is the world that has been pulled over your eyes to blind you from the truth."
surfers surfing surfboards

Location: Brisbane QLD, Australia
Joined: Jan 3 2010
Posts: 15
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Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Huck, I'm 5'8" & 160.......I can "just" get my arm around the bugger. It's really up to you & how easy you want it to be. 50/50 egg rails, bit of roll up to the rails, light nose concave. I'll give you the final decision as to what you want....

Joined: Dec 12 2009
Posts: 18
Points: 38

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

I sold it when I moved out here to California (no room to bring it), but I used to own a 10' Hansen 50/50.  It is said frequently that boards are "wave catching machines" but that board would get into waves way way early with minimal effort.  Moreover, in Florida, there where days were the bouys would be reading .5ft @ 3 secs, and that it would find lumps to trim and walk around on.  I spent a week in Cape Cod with it in some good surf (clean waist-head beach break) and it went great in that too.  The dimensions on it were: 10'x23.25"x3.5", nose:19 1/8" tail: 18.5".  Goddamn I miss that surfboard...  When I get around to building a longboard, it will definitely be done with that board in mind.

Also, I am 5'6" and 165 pounds.

Location: San Marcos, CA 92078, USA
Joined: Dec 23 2004
Posts: 3057
Points: 2606

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

Hello Huck,

 I like you. We will meet some day and become real friends. It will happen....I'm going to throw some stuff out at you....Don't get mad...we're friends....

Ditch the HWS thing. I know you are a skilled wood worker. Build a quality surfboard with EPS foam...dial in the shape...then make one out of wood...Wood boards are nice but ......you need to dial in  the whole shape/ rail/ rocker thing.....The wood is holding you back...work it out with foam...you have the skills.

Do you own a Clark Foam Catalog? It's one of my best tools. The numbers you need are there ,The shapers comments...!!!

I believe in Magic.....3 and 23 are magic numbers....work around it... Don't stray too far from the magic numbers....

I like extra tail rocker on my longer boards. I also like 50/50 rails.....I like single fin long boards....

MarkSSD loved my new longboard shape so much he claimed it!

 I told him...It's shaped for me...If you like it you can have it. Buy me a new blank and we will work out the details later...

...Funny stuff....The board did not work for Mark....I Iove the board!   Best longboard I've ever owned .....

3 and 23 are magic

Ohhh...recomended shape.....Sorry ..you're on you're own....It's nice to have friends...

Ray

Joined: Aug 25 2009
Posts: 989
Points: 1163

Re: [Huckleberry] my 1st longboard: recommend me a shape

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